Monday, March 28, 2005

Bechamel, Lasagna and Maurizio

While studying in Florence, I lived in a house with 54 students, one host family, and Maurizio—our chef. Our calendar was defined by what Maurizio would be serving at dinner each night. Lasagna Thursday. Pesto Monday. And the most famous, Tiramisu Tuesday. Oh the Tiramisu. I still dream about it.

Upon my return home, I did what any normal student returning home from Italy does: I tried my hand at recreating some of Maurizio’s famous dishes. Armed with my book of “Ricette di Maurizio” (“Maurizio’s Recipes”—in fact, not his recipes, but I’m not complaining) and the cravings of a madwoman, I began my first attempt: Lasagna al Pesto. The ingredients were familiar enough, even if the converted measurements were a little confusing. The only ingredient I was unfamiliar with was béchamel sauce, which I simply added to the grocery list for my wonderful mother. It was then that I found out béchamel sauce is not sold in grocery stores here. Alfredo sauce served as the stand-in that night.

The Lasagna al Pesto was fantastic. Cheesy and warm, with the crunch of toasted pine nuts and creamy pesto oozing out of each bite. No, it was not Maurizio’s, but it was good.

This past weekend, after little more than a year of obsessively studying food and cooking, I finally got my “Aha!” moment. I discovered that the béchamel sauce is one of the simplest of all Italian sauces, and the base for most cream sauces. It is a white sauce which starts with a roux, then cream is slowly added and then simmered until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. At the end, fresh nutmeg is added to give the flavor more depth (white sauces are almost always better off with the addition of freshly ground nutmeg). (I'm still not sure if it is in fact any different than Alfredo Sauce)

And what should a Kristy do with her new discovery? Make Lasagna al Pesto, of course! This time, much to my chagrin, I was not armed with my trusty book of recipes. I’m sure it’s on my cookbook shelf, but seeing as the shelf is 9 feet off the ground, I am a staggering 5’4”, and Matt was gone for the afternoon, I was on my own. I researched several different lasagna recipes, and decided to wing it.

The béchamel sauce was thrillingly easy, and made the whole kitchen smell buttery and warm. I poured some into the bottom of my small lasagna pan, then layered lasagna noodles, more béchamel, pesto, parmesan, and repeated this pattern until I reached the top of the pan. Another layer consisting of mozzarella, parmesan and pine nuts, and the lasagna was ready to bask in the oven for awhile.

Really, need I mention how the house smelled when Matt got home? Marsh’s nose was on a warpath to discover the origin of the delicious aroma, and I must say I was then envious of his heightened sense of smell. It was pesto-nirvana.

Bechamel Sauce
(adapted from foodnetwork.com)

1 stick unsalted butter (4 ounces)
1/2 cup and 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 quart whole milk, at room temperature
Pinch fresh nutmeg
Sea salt

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Always stirring, very gradually add the milk and continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and creamy. Simmer until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. This will take approximately 10 minutes. Stir in nutmeg. Reserve in a water bath if not using immediately.

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